Published at Friday, November 16th 2018. by Dolly Clarke in Kitchen Table.
This is the homemade modern, DIY kitchen series, where we will show you how we built an entire kitchen from scratch. This episode will focus on how we made these concrete countertops. I picked out a faucet and sink before I started, making the countertops I selected a simple faucet that would only require a single hole through the countertop. I chose a sink with relatively square corners so that it'd be easier to make the knockout in the countertop mold.
I'm going to cast the countertops to face down in melamine, molds in three separate pieces. I'm going to start by ripping down some melamine on. My table saw two strips that are 2 and 3/4 of an inch wide. I then cut the pieces to length on my chop. Saw I screwed scrap blocks of wood to the strips of melamine that I rip down. I then screw these fences to the melamine base. I'm going to cast two pieces of countertop in this one mold, so I have to put in the center divider. I used a hot glue gun to secure the corners and edges of the mold.
The mold for the middle piece of countertop is the most complicated because I have to make a hole for the sink. I used L brackets to make a frame, that's the same size as the inside of the sink. I used my hot glue gun to reinforce the corners and to secure this inner frame to the melamine base. I'm going to use PVC pipes to make the knockout hole for the faucet, I'm going to make a cut down the length of the PVC pipe, so that's easier to remove from the concrete, but first I'm going to secure it.
To my workstation, I used a piece of paint stirring stick to keep the PVC pipe from closing and then wrapped it with painters tape before hot gluing it to the melamine base. I use silicone caulk to seal the ends of the melamine strips for the inner mold end to seal all the edges and corners. I cut pieces of steel mesh to use as reinforcement I'm going to use require 5000 for these countertops and mix it in a mixing tray using a hoe.
It's helpful to have an extra person around to help distribute the concrete while you're doing the mixing once the molds are about 3/4 of the way full I'm going to add in the reinforcing mesh. I don't want to push it down too far. Otherwise, I'll get rust marks on the top of the countertops, so I'm just going to place it add more concrete and then, as I vibrate the concrete with the hoe, the mesh will settle a little bit down. I use the hoe to push the concrete into all the corners of the molds and screed at the top of the concrete using an extra piece of 2x4.
I hot-glued a piece of wood to the blade of my reciprocating saw and use that to vibrate out the air bubbles of the wet concrete. I don't want the concrete to dry out too fast, so I covered it with plastic drop cloths to keep some of the moisture in. We sprayed it with water every few hours for the first 24 hours to keep the concrete moist while it cures after letting the concrete cure for 48 hours.
Any content, trademark’s, or other material that might be found on the swedishbasketball.com website that is not swedishbasketball.com’s property remains the copyright of its respective owner/s. In no way does swedishbasketball.com claim ownership or responsibility for such items, and you should seek legal consent for any use of such materials from its owner.
Copyright © 2018 swedishbasketball.com. All Rights Reserved.